On our tour of India, we stayed in nice places, which meant, no matter our fatigue or sensory overload, we always had a good meal and quiet room waiting at the end of the day. In Delhi, we stayed in Claridge’s, a classy hotel built in the 50’s, a good place for a BBC murder mystery. Rooms had housekeepers assigned to them (always male), who cleaned the room, kept it stocked with fresh towels, replenished tea and coffee, and water bottles, lots of water bottles (we weren’t to drink the tap water or eat raw vegetables). The housekeepers also turned down beds at night. We had an especially friendly and gracious housekeeper, and one evening after dinner when we returned to our room, we found perched on the end of our neatly made bed, a towel sculpture of Ganesha, the ubiquitous elephant god, who it turns out is evoked for many occasions, one being the beginning of a trip.